#March2023
Evening event schedule at the bottom
Hello Curious, Playful, Amateurs, and Fine Gourmets!
After a February month of four seasons and unstable weather, starting too dry and hot to end up icy, snowy, and rainy – no time for boredom! Here in Pau in the Southwest, it was freezing... we almost needed skis to get around town, big snowballs fell on our heads! But that didn't stop our little escapades in the vineyards, nor the winemakers from coming to say hello!
This month's big favorite is a newcomer to the Basque landscape: Olivier Pouchoulou in Ispoure and his Domaine Etxondoa in Irouléguy. Established on 4.5 hectares since the 2020 vintage only! The vines are located on the steep slopes of Arradoy with 30% and up to 45% inclination! And to make things even more challenging, he planted them – also to scare himself... in the direction of the slope, thus planting with higher density than on terraces, favoring quality! His "Xut" cuvées, pronounced "Chut," mean "slope" by necessity... The south-facing orientation of the plots and the magnificent red sandstone terroir mark the wines with great maturity and minerality at the same time, expressing ample and full palates with much relief! The wines are neither chaptalized nor deacidified, nor subject to other chemical interventions, of course! The wines are also very lightly sulfited to preserve all the organoleptic qualities of the wine. Moreover, Olivier will soon have some surprises for us: a superb single-vineyard red cuvée and his other small vineyard in Mauléon outside the appellation, where he is conducting interesting experiments... to be continued! !
During the same outing, I also had an appointment with the humanist winemaker Paul Carricaburu from Domaine Espila. Always a wonderful moment of exchange with Paul, on so many subjects discussed and his immense passion for nature and his small mosaic plots... limestone, red sandstone or ophites! Paul has it all, and that's part of his uniqueness! A very beautiful tasting of his upcoming 2022s, already a beautiful open and distinguished profile like the winemaker himself, reflecting his image, and it's this naturalness that is striking... well, we'll wait a little longer, and so will you, won't you?
Some original arrivals from Bordeaux, let's not forget them!!
Château Micalet, this charming and discreet estate in Haut Médoc, Cru Artisan, producing terroir wines, all of which have been certified Organic since 2009... and that's so rare in this region. Their primary concern is the vineyard. Producing quality grapes allows them to produce wine they love, simple and obvious! A classic vinification with gentle aging in barrels for 12 months, including one-third new barrels. And the presence of this grape variety, which is becoming rare everywhere but grows well here, Petit Verdot, with its aromas of black cherry, raspberry, lilac, menthol, pepper, sage, and violet... a grape variety that today presents a real interest regarding observed climate change... not to be forgotten, right?
Next, a great discovery with Eric Seuve, winemaker and trainer in animal traction; here is an astonishing cuvée with 12 to 14 months of aging in large terracotta amphorae. Clos Ryval in the Côte du Bourg appellation cultivates 2 hectares facing south on the Gironde estuary on a hillside with the help of his horses. A very open nose of ripe red fruits, very gourmet, an elegant palate with freshness and a very silky texture. The horse in the vineyards is very important for Eric, who also breeds draft horses, especially Breton Drafts. Let's listen to him: "By passing with a horse, we eliminate the compaction that a straddle tractor (vineyard tractor) would create under each wheel. The soil is softer, so the roots can reach deeper to find the specific nutrients of the soil on which the vines grow."
The good Savoyard wines from Domaine Dupasquier have also arrived... from the commune of Jongieux, with the lovely and predestined name... "Aimavigne"...!! Here, the vine has been queen for a long time on this magnificent south-west facing hillside with its array of typical grape varieties: Jacquère, Roussette Altesse for white, or Mondeuse for red. A winter cuisine like fondue, raclette, or tartiflette is ideal... but not only that!! Try a seafood platter with Jacquère, a beautiful blue trout with Roussette would be a perfect match, or a lovely golden roasted poultry with Mondeuse (a distant relative of the famous Syrah!) with its peppery, smoky scents and ripe yet crisp black fruits on the palate! Everyone to the kitchen!
JAPAN
A trip to Japan with Takuko San at Yuri M. Refreshing, this sake brings out all the umami of the rice. An interesting sake whether chilled, at room temperature, or warmed: its characteristics will evolve with temperature. It is entirely made from "Saga-no-mai" rice developed and grown in Saga Prefecture on the beautiful island of Kyushu. Produced by the Matsuuraichi brewery, founded in 1716 in Imari on the Genkai Nada sea side.
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Still in Bordeaux. La Bouche is a low-temperature distillery. Inspired by gourmet cuisine and sous-vide cooking. With their Rotavap, a vacuum still preserving the maximum aromas and freshness of the chosen botanicals. This process allows them to infuse at less than 35°C, thus avoiding cooking and deteriorating them. Each botanical is distilled separately. A real favorite for the character, quality, and originality of their productions amidst the labyrinth of all the gins offered today, with varying degrees of success.... |
Palais Curieux March 2023
Here is the selection of curiosities for the month. Domaine Etxondoa // Domaine Dupasquier // Château Micalet // Clos Ryval // Dominique Andiran
Like every month, a small summary of new arrivals in this package, ready to be delivered right to your door!
From the Basque Country in Ispoure at Olivier Pouchoulou's, a remarkable revelation, all the way to the north of Gers at Dominique Andiran's, who is no longer a revelation but constantly surprises us with such vitality! At his place, we are pleased to offer you a national and even international exclusive... with his "Vain de Ru" 2007 dry white, pure Colombard... yes, I'm not making it up... directly from his cellar, a wonder of hazelnuts and candied lemon... I'm thirsty! Brilliant, we just love it!
Then Bordeaux... because there's not just water in Bordeaux ;) between the ocean, the Gironde, the Garonne and the Dordogne... there are also vines and wine... in case you'd forgotten!
Then a good climb up to Savoie, it's good for the legs (cyclists will be fans!) to the aptly named hamlet of Aimavigne!? A steep hillside where almost everything is done by hand... at Véronique Dupasquier and her brother's; two true, pure artisans!
