To kick off Autumn on the right foot, here's a bounty of lovely, freshly arrived items...
Let's continue the Loire saga in Savennières with "Maison Jaune" and "Domaine aux Moines" by Tessa Laroche. A great terroir, two great winemakers – prepare for strong emotions.
But also, Domaine "Les Eminades" in Saint-Chinian, alcohol-free drinks from "Nos Jardins Imparfaits" in the Jura, and the beautiful local and vitamin-rich products from "Lin des Pyrénées."
Get ready for a gourmet October!
Walking through the vineyards of Savennières with Jean-Claude Taddei is an enriching experience. In the spirit of "non-action," dear to Masanobu Fukuoka, Jean-Claude does not work his soils, just a little mowing from time to time to refresh, resulting in a complete osmosis between a heterogeneous and dense vegetation (wear trousers, it's itchy in shorts) and a vigorous and healthy vine. In the cellar, it's the same formula: we let things happen (while keeping an eye on them, trust does not exclude control) and we age elegantly. The juices are full and complex, expressive and free.
- Jean-Claude, are you crazy or what?
- No, I'm Fukuoka!
Domaine aux Moines, Tessa Laroche
Let's stay in Savennières and climb to the very top of the Roche aux Moines hillside. Here, vines first appeared in the 12th century, driven, as you can imagine, by the monks of Saint-Nicolas d'Angers Abbey. Visiting Tessa on her land means, first and foremost, being immersed in a sense of grandeur and humility, both before the building nestled amidst a poetic rose garden and vines enclosed in a walled vineyard surrounding the cellar, and before this winemaker of character, meticulous yet gentle. Here, there are no magic recipes; they listen to nature, monitor the weather, and work thoughtfully and authentically, always seeking the useful gesture. Surrounded by her "boys" and her Chenin grapes, Tessa delivers pure, elegant juices, always tinged with a mineral tension that grips you.
Tessa me, Tessa me mucho.
Let's go south to Cébazan (34), on the complex terroirs of Saint-Chinian. Since 2002, Patricia and Luc Bettoni have been working with a puzzle of eminently diverse and varied terroirs: dolomite limestones, red sandstones, schists, and some beautiful stones: rolled pebbles and flints. If you're looking for structured, blocky Languedoc wines, you won't find them here. At Les Eminades, they prefer fresh and elegant textures, undulating rather than angular tannins. In short, they don't concrete things over at the Bettonis'! These are profiles that have been hard to find recently in this scorching part of France (though there are still a few, rest assured).
Les Eminades, "éminence grise"? Hopefully!
What a strange name for what appears to be common sense farming. Perched in their Jura village of Saint-Jean-d'Etreux at an altitude of 450 meters, these former city dwellers embrace the wild nature of their surroundings. Thus, brambles and "weeds" coexist with new and old varieties, "ugly" or "beautiful" fruits, to use the marketing terms of large brands that have pilloried them in their quest for eugenics. Once processed, everything harmonizes and gives singularity to these natural drinks and juices, with audaciously complementary combinations. Balance in diversity.
Gardens that are more than perfect!
For once, an arrival of Pyrenean flax. Come discover this cereal packed with protein and mineral virtues: calcium, iron, manganese, phosphorus, potassium, and zinc – quite a list. Plus, it's delicious and versatile: flour for your pasta and pastries, flakes to sprinkle on your meats, fish, salads, or soups, oil for raw seasoning of your vegetables and more, but also delicious savory biscuits with sheep's cheese or chili, or sweet ones for the dessert lovers.
Virtuous indulgence.
